It's talked about over beers and in cafes -- though more so by angsty newcomers; it's written about clinically in the Times Picayune; and it's aftershocks are mourned with second-lines and memorial concerts.
New York had a jangled, nervous twitch, but a feeling of motion. New Orleans has the same nervousness, but it's stagnant, permanent, and more serious.
This place's surreal beauty works as Xanax to the anxiety. (Mint Juleps and grits work too.) But, like Xanax, it only treats the symptoms.
But just as the feeling in the air is heaver, the fun I have and the people I connect with feel like small, brave victories.
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